“He remembers seeing a man from the Church of Christ cooking a steer with some apparatus involving chicken wire, an oil-rig pipe, and a hole in the ground. He also remembers playing cowboys and Indians with a young Billy Clinton.”

Southerners don’t go to London to eat barbecue. At least we shouldn’t. But after we’ve been there awhile, it’s understandable if we get a craving flung on us, as Jerry Clower used to say. When that happens, there’s a solution.