Faithful readers will remember that we celebrated Southern Cultures’s twentieth birthday last year. It was a banner year, full of exciting programs, special issues, and happy memories. But you can’t cheat time; age brings its changes, large and small, and we are no exception. This issue brings a bittersweet moment of changing leadership as Jocelyn Neal steps down as my co-editor, and Marcie Cohen Ferris comes forward in her place. The change is bittersweet because we hate to see Jocelyn move on, but we are delighted to welcome Marcie. And using a flavor to describe our feelings is a perfect metaphor, for this is our special issue on southern food, in all its mouth-watering complexity.